Interview: Optimizing Concrete Compressive Strength Monitoring for a Treatment Plant

Interview: Optimizing Concrete Compressive Strength Monitoring for a Treatment Plant

Treating about 80% of San Francisco’s water since 1952, the Southeast Treatment Plant has been a critical structure for sanitizing the wastewater of San Francisco. However, the plant has been around for years, and now, many of its facilities need an upgrade.

Knowing this, the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission has started modernizing the plant. Part of this transformation includes replacing the treatment plant’s headworks facility with a new one. That will ensure the treatment plant will be able to more effectively remove debris and grit from the water while meeting the current seismic standards.

To construct this more modern headworks facility, the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission has collaborated in a joint venture with The Walsh Group Ltd. and Sundt. And we are pleased to note that we are helping The Walsh Group Ltd. optimize their work in this venture with our Maturix Smart Concrete Sensors.

Our Maturix specialist, Kris Till, got to discuss this in a recent video interview that he conducted (which you can see here). And in this article, you’ll get to see that discussion along with some extra details on the topic.

Why don’t we get started by having you tell us who you are, who you work for, and what you’re building?

My name is Tanner Santo. I’m a superintendent for The Walsh Group here in San Francisco, California. We are building the new headworks for the Southeast Treatment Plant. It’s going to be up to a 300-million-gallon-per-day capacity in the wet season. We’re looking at probably a good two years of structural concrete, which will primarily be my focus.

What do you consider to be the most important factor when building a project like this?

I think one of the biggest things I look for as a superintendent is to maintain efficiency while also preserving quality. There are a lot of moving parts and challenging logistics on this project. And what we need to do is just get our crews into a rhythm.

So, why are you monitoring concrete in this project?

That’s actually a very good question. We’re doing a lot of vertical walls on this job. I think we have 300 to 400 different wall placements. And the big thing for us is that we cannot strip those forms until we reach a minimum compressive strength.

What would you have done in the past to monitor your concrete compressive strength?

So, in the past, in situations like this, we pour a wall, say on a Monday, and take a bunch of concrete cylinders. By Tuesday morning, they’re sent off to a lab. If I want early breaks to remove the formwork, I need to take extra cylinders.

The extra cylinders can be costly when you talk about hundreds of wall placements. So taking and breaking extra cylinders for every placement adds up very quickly.

What’s even more of a hassle is getting those break results. So if I put in a 30-foot-tall [9.14-meter-tall] concrete wall on a Monday, Tuesday morning, I’m waiting on a testing lab to give me early breaks back and what I need them to tell me is that the concrete has reached a minimum strength. So in that morning time when I’m waiting for a break result or for the testing lab, I have a crew of guys who are basically not being efficient. They can’t strip the formwork yet.

nd what’s your current concrete monitoring process like now?

We put a few thermocouples with the Maturix Sensors into the wall at the time of placement, and thanks to the maturity curve that we’re able to calculate with the help of CEMEX, our concrete provider, we actually get a live readout of compressive strength. If we had never run this maturity curve for these sensors or monitored the live compressive strength with the sensors, I don’t think we ever would have realized how quickly we were getting concrete strength on this job.

It gives me a lot of temperature data as well. Had those sensors not been there, we wouldn’t have realized that we are working with a relatively hot mix. We now exercise some caution with some of those thicker placements that I don’t think we ever would have previously because we just wouldn’t have known what type of internal temperatures we were getting on this job. That information alone has been a big help as far as planning and scheduling goes.

It’s even so streamlined that I have notifications set up to my cell phone. I’m not waiting on a call from a testing lab. I’m not hounding a testing lab. I actually get a ding on my phone, but on this project, it’s a bit unique. It’s actually kind of in the middle of the night or the early, early morning when it tells me that a wall has reached 1,250 psi [8.62 MPa]. That way at 7 am, when the guys show up to work, we’re not waiting on anything. We immediately get to work taking the forms off. I know the wall has reached a compressive strength where it’s safe to do so. There’s really no second-guessing anything. And that helps with the logistics of cranes and organizing manpower.

Why did you specifically choose Maturix?

What made Maturix the number one choice was just the cost-effectiveness of it. A lot of the competitors have one-time-use sensors where you’re paying up around $100 a sensor and you embed it into the concrete. In every single pour, that’s $100 down the drain whereas Maturix technology is actually better because I don’t have to go around and capture the data with Bluetooth. It’s all done over a cloud network. It’s sent directly to my phone like I mentioned. I don’t have to pay someone to go around and collect data via Bluetooth. So in reality, I’m paying less for a better product.

So it seems Maturix offers cost-effective concrete compressive strength and temperature monitoring. It also documents everything related to this. Has that helped you with quality control procedures?

Yeah, definitely. It just basically organizes all our pours. I mean, I can go back to stuff I poured a month ago and see that Maturix records the exact time of placement.

What would you tell someone who is considering Maturix?

It’s streamlined. It’s easy. As far as cost-effective, it’s not even close compared to the competitors out there with the one-time-use sensors. And the labor you save in collecting the data is also a huge cost saving as well. So we’ve just been very happy with what these sensors have provided for us here.

Thank you so much for taking the time to talk with us. We really appreciate it.

No problem. You guys are helping us out a lot on this project. We got a good thing going here, so I’m happy to help out.

*Banner photo by Pi.1415926535, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Convenient. Cost-Effective. Remote. Concrete monitoring with Maturix. Book a demo today!

The post Interview: Optimizing Concrete Compressive Strength Monitoring for a Treatment Plant appeared first on Kryton.

What can Precast Concrete be Used For?

Known for its immense strength, durability, and endurance, concrete is the number one building material in the world. It’s been used for centuries and can last for thousands of years.

There are several different types of concrete, but today we’re going to take a look at precast and its many uses. 

What is precast concrete?

Precast concrete is formed using a mold and is often used to create columns, beams, or parking curbs. It can be produced in mass quantities due to specifications and codes that are already established. This building process is extremely efficient, allowing for hundreds of large structures to be built in just a few weeks.

The purpose of precast and its many uses

Precast concrete is built above the ground and can be used to stabilize large pieces of earth or hold back dirt. This makes it a great choice for building large retaining walls or smaller retention ponds. 

Three-sided bridges and box culverts for marshland and stream crossings also call for precast concrete. A strong material is particularly essential for structures like these. Otherwise, traveling over this type of land would be impossible without damaging the environment. 

In certain cases, custom pieces can even be made to meet your unique needs; for example, creating a vault using more than one piece when preexisting blockages are in the way. In these circumstances, individual precast panels are constructed and the vaults are then pieced together in place. Other custom examples may include railroad crossings or boat ramps.

Precast concrete is also used to construct buried infrastructure like catch basins, manholes, and vaults. These structures can be used to house telecommunication or electrical junction boxes, move storm water or sewage, and retain water.

Understanding the benefits

One of the biggest perks of precast concrete is that it’s ready to install when you are. This is one of the main shortcomings of site-casted concrete, because weather can delay the pour. Because precast concrete is created within a controlled environment, this is not an issue.

Another major benefit is the fact that strength-testing has already occurred before delivery day. Site-casted concrete, however, requires extra time and effort on the day of the pour to add rebar, set forms, and monitor the product.

When it comes to the production of precast concrete, the process alone is extremely sustainable. At Port Aggregates, all of our concrete products are made with the highest quality materials. It’s why we’ve been trusted for over 40 years! Contact us today to request a quote

The post What can Precast Concrete be Used For? appeared first on Port Aggregates.

How to Remove Stains From Concrete Flooring

How to Remove Stains From Concrete Flooring

One of the biggest concerns that people have when it comes to concrete flooring is how to clean it efficiently.

Fortunately, removing stains from a concrete floor is not nearly as difficult or complicated as it sounds.

Here are a few stain removal tricks to help you maintain spectacular looking concrete floors.

Removing paint stains

Timing is everything when it comes to a paint stain on concrete flooring. For the best results, it’s critical to act as quickly as possible.

For a fresh spill, start by putting on goggles for eye protection, then mix together one cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) with four liters of hot water. Pour the mixture over the paint, scrub it with a long brush, and pressure rinse it until the stain is removed.

Unfortunately, if you’re dealing with a very large spill, there may always be a slight hint of color left on the concrete.

Removing oil

Oil stains are some of the ugliest, most stubborn stains out there. If possible, try to absorb the oil as soon as you notice it so that it doesn’t penetrate into the concrete.

Believe it or not, your best bet against a fresh oil stain is to pour cat litter or mud over it, then scrub with a stiff brush or broom. Leave the cat litter or mud on top of the stain for at least an hour before sweeping it away. For tougher stains, leave it overnight.

If this doesn’t completely do the trick, mix together one cup of TSP with hot water, then pour this on top of the stain. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes before scrubbing with a rigid nylon brush and hosing it off with pressurized water.

Removing mud

When mud is left for too long on concrete flooring, it can leave an ugly brown stain. Fortunately, this is one of the easiest stains to remove. Simply mix together some dishwashing detergent and warm water into a spray bottle, shake it, and squirt it over the stain. Let it sit for around 10 minutes, then scrub it off with a nylon brush and rinse with a high-pressure hose.

Removing rust stains

Unfortunately, rust stains on concrete are quite difficult to remove entirely. Large, old rust stains often require a special rust remover. But for smaller, newer rust stains, using vinegar is your best bet.

Just pour it on the stain, let it sit for at least 10 minutes before scrubbing with a nylon brush, and its acidic properties will eat away the rust. Rinsing and repeating may be required.

Looking for more tips on concrete and how to clean it? Check out the Port Aggregates blog

The post How to Remove Stains From Concrete Flooring appeared first on Port Aggregates.

4 Steps to Prepare Your Stamped Concrete for Summer

4 Steps to Prepare Your Stamped Concrete for Summer

When it comes to taking care of stamped concrete, summer is the best season to do so.

With temperatures rising in Louisiana, now is the time to start preparing your concrete for the warmer weather to come.

To increase the longevity of your decorative concrete, you must follow the following 4 steps when preparing your slab for summer.

1. Make sure you don’t need to strip your concrete

After a particularly harsh winter (like the record-breaking freeze of 2020), you may want to consider resealing your concrete.

Before you do so, however, you may wonder whether or not it’s necessary to strip off the old sealer first.

Fortunately, as long as your slab has been around longer than the early 2000s and has been stripped once before, it will not need stripping prior to resealing.

2. Power wash your slab

Once you’ve concluded whether or not you need to strip your stamped concrete, you’ll want to power wash it before you proceed with anything else.

Pollen, leaf, and tire stains can create such an eyesore. Power washing your slab is ideal for clearing away all the dirt, grime, and stains that have built up over the past year.

If you’ve got tough stains from oil and tar, you should use neutral soap, a solvent cleaner, or a degreaser first. This will loosen the stain which can then be sprayed off with the power washer.

3. Check for cracks

After your stamped concrete has been fully cleaned, scan it with your eyes for cracks. Most hairline fractures can be fixed on your own, but long and deep cracks may require you to replace the slab altogether.

4. Seal your concrete

If you haven’t resealed your concrete in the past three years, now is the best time to do so. Sealer is most effectively applied during warm weather on dry concrete. If you’re planning on sealing your concrete this spring, be sure to check the weather ahead of time, as the sealer will need a couple of days with no rain in order to dry properly.

Looking for more concrete tips and tricks? Check out the Port Aggregates blog

The post 4 Steps to Prepare Your Stamped Concrete for Summer appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Your Guide to Colored Concrete

Your Guide to Colored Concrete

When you think of concrete, you probably visualize a boring, grey slab.

Not many people associate concrete with color, but with the help of aesthetic treatments, it can really become a true work of art.

Before you start your next colored concrete project, it’s important to understand the advantages and ingredients involved.

Key benefits

1. Enhancing the appearance of your yard

The first and most obvious benefit of colored concrete is its aesthetic appeal. Whether you’re incorporating it into your new driveway or backyard patio, you’d be surprised at the difference a simple pop of color can make to your yard.

But beauty isn’t its only benefit.

2. Extra protection

The aesthetic treatments used to give colored concrete its pigment also provide a practical, wear-resistant coating and a beautiful finish. This will help your gorgeous slab maintain its fresh look over time, protecting it from weather and the damage of day-to-day use.

Understanding the two techniques

When it comes to concrete coloring, there are two main techniques:

1. Stirring the colorant into the concrete mix itself

This mixing technique is most commonly used in projects that desire one solid color. It works by mixing in a powdered pigment made up of inorganic minerals into the ready mix. This pigment is oftentimes made of chromium oxides and iron.

2. Stamping the concrete

Concrete stamping, on the other hand, is used for projects that require special patterns or designs. This method involves layering colorant on top of fresh concrete then stamping it with texturing molds. This colorant is either made up of synthetic or natural pigments.

Synthetic pigments

Synthetic pigments are made up of metallic oxides and are created through industrial processes. During these processes, minerals (the raw material) are refined to change their physio-chemical properties.

These physio-chemical properties are what link each metallic oxide to their specific color. Cobalt oxide, for example, is a metallic oxide used to create blue concrete.

Natural pigments

Natural pigments are derived from mineral deposits, and like synthetic pigments, they’re made up of metallic oxides and hydroxides. Iron is most commonly used to apply this pigmentation.

Get prettier, longer-lasting concrete by coloring it. At Port Aggregates, our professional concrete contractors are highly skilled in creating beautiful, precise pours every time. Contact us today to request a quote for your next project!

The post Your Guide to Colored Concrete appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Your Guide to Exposed Aggregate Concrete

Your Guide to Exposed Aggregate Concrete

Concrete is much more than just a place to park your car or a foundation for your home.

When starting your next project, it’s important to be aware of your options. This material can really be quite beautiful if you know what to ask for.

The possibilities are endless, but today, let’s take a closer look at exposed aggregate concrete.

What is exposed aggregate concrete?

Over 100 years old, the exposed aggregate technique quite literally “paved” the way for decorative concrete. 

The name pretty much says it all. In this type of concrete, a thin top layer is intentionally removed to expose the aggregate underneath. The exposed layer can include sandgravel, quartzite, or crushed glass.

Gravel is most commonly used, and a variety of different sizes are available to give you the desired texture that you want. See example below.

exposed aggregate concrete

Benefits of exposed aggregate

Exposed aggregate concrete offers infinite benefits. The most glaring advantage is its gorgeous appearance and satisfying texture. It adds a natural element to any area, and the three-dimensional surface is completely customizable. 

Another advantage to this type of decorative concrete is its increased traction. Rough surfaces like these are ideal for helping you keep your footing–even when the surface is wet or icy. It can even be customized to stick out at certain levels, if you so desire.

One of the main reasons why exposed aggregate is so popular is its price. It’s one of the least expensive types of decorative concrete available, and is an affordable alternative to standard, drab concrete.

Maintenance tips

Like any other type of concrete, exposed aggregate offers immense durability and is very low-maintenance. 

Proper care includes regular sweeping or rinsing off with a hose. It should also be resealed every couple of years. Fortunately, the color of the aggregates will not fade over time, and it’s actually the easiest type of decorative concrete to keep up with.

Repairs (if necessary) are quite simple, and exposed aggregate can last for decades if properly cared for and installed by professionals. At Port Aggregates, our expert concrete contractors have decades’ worth of experience built every pour. Contact us today to request a quote

The post Your Guide to Exposed Aggregate Concrete appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Did you miss our previous article…
https://www.concretestyle.net/?p=1124

How is Sand Used in the Construction Industry?

How is Sand Used in the Construction Industry?

Contrary to popular belief, there are several different forms of sand on this earth.

Some are engineered for specific construction purposes, and others are completely natural.

Sand has been used for many different purposes since the beginning of time, and is especially useful to the construction industry for many reasons.

Sand uses in the construction industry

Sand can be used to create many different types of concrete and mortars, and is typically used in formwork, slate, granite, concrete, porcelain, plaster, and brick for buildings.

It can also be used to construct public works like tunnels, refurbish work in railway facilities, demolish masonry, and abrasively clean concrete.

In environments that are high risk for chemical spills, silica sand is used to create slip-proof flooring.

How silica sand affects concrete

Silica sand in particular has a unique effect on concrete and poses quite a few risks.

While it is a commonly used material, it’s not 100% safe, and can seriously affect the health of workers who handle it.

When working with silica sand in poorly ventilated or closed spaces, dust clouds can occur that are harmful to the people and machinery within close proximity.

That being said, this material should only be used by a professional who is wearing the proper PPE and taking the appropriate preventative measures. It is not to be used for a DIY project.

At Port Aggregates, we offer 5 different types of sand:

Fill sand (unscreened/unwashed)Top soilFlume sand (screened/washed)Concrete sand (larger/coarse/washed)Mason sand (fine/coarse/washed)

Our sands are ideal for use in landscaping, concrete, and more. All of our materials are of the highest quality, and we service 24 areas across the state of Louisiana. Contact us today to request a quote

The post How is Sand Used in the Construction Industry? appeared first on Port Aggregates.

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https://www.concretestyle.net//category/politics

Out of the box – Vol. 3

Out of the box – Vol. 3

Index

IntroductionOur researchWhy cellulose based insulation?Why lime instead of cement?Cardboard+lime insulationMaking and applyingConclusions and further steps

Introduction

In recent decades, we have seen many examples of individuals and collectives striving for a greener way of building: reviving traditional methods, favouring natural materials or including recycled elements in the process to limit the footprint. Critical Concrete embraced this aim from the beginning: in 2017, we started experimenting with cardboard based insulation, and since then we have been working with other materials (such as wool or mycelium) that can serve as valid alternatives to the more polluting conventional ones.

This article presents our journey and experience researching and developing prototypes for cardboard-lime based insulation. We will talk about why we decided to dig deep in lime and cellulose based materials, and what we learnt from our prototyping. Our research aims to deepen the recycled paper and cardboard potential as top sustainable insulation material.

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

Our research

More expensive rents means more people having to live in precarious houses1. Housing poverty is one of the leading global issues2, affecting more and more people in the face of climate change. The lack of thermal comfort causes serious health issues, and is responsible for many preventable deaths especially among vulnerable and low-income communities.

housing deprivation portugal eurostat

In Portugal, where we are based:

Almost 20% of people claimed to be unable to keep their home adequately warm during winter.335.7% said their house is not comfortable during summer.4In 2018, at least 1 in 5 people lived in a dwelling with a leaking roof, damp walls, floors or foundation, or rotting window frames or floor.5

Our priority is to improve housing conditions through affordable and environmentally friendly solutions. This is the main reason our research lab has been focusing on insulation methods for many years.

We started experimenting with cardboard in 2017 due to the high performance of cellulose insulation. Our research began considering the advantages and handicaps of using corrugated cardboard as an insulation panel. So far, we produced boxes and panels for a low-tech insulation system and applied it in different summer school houses, in cases the insulation could not be applied on the exterior of the house (houses in line, no space in the street, etc.).

Last  year, we decided to move forward in our research and try to find a method to continue producing cellulose based insulation but on a larger scale, since we wanted to continue developing an insulation that would be mineral-based and would not need to be covered by a plywood board or equivalent.

Why cellulose based insulation?

Cellulose is the organic compound mainly used to produce paper and cardboard, and other wide varieties of derivative products. It works as a very competitive insulation material, “depending on manu- facturing and method of installation and is comparable with other types of insulation. It has an average thermal conductivity being of about 0.040W/mK (similar to glass wool and rock wool insulations)”.6

Paper and cardboard are extensively used and abundant resource. Reusing and recycling cardboard locally7 also reduces emissions substantially:

In 2016, 50 660 000 tons of paper and cardboard wastage were produced in the European Union. Almost one million (905 137 tons) just in Portugal.8That year, within the EU, 72% of that waste was recycled. Whilst in Portugal the percentage was 55%.9

This means that we may take advantage of a material with high insulation performance and avoid it to become disposal waste at the same time, adding a new step in its life cycle.

There are many examples of people working with cellulose based materials, as the known papercrete, which since the ‘90s has been used in informal bio-constructions around the world. Papercrete is the building material made of paper pulp and cement. The main advantage of it is “that it is lightweight but sturdy enough to bear loads10. But we didn’t want to use cement.

Why lime instead of cement?

Cement became especially relevant during the industrial revolution and it has changed our way of building from that moment. Nowadays, as an affordable and easily accessible material, cement might seem like the perfect solution to achieve efficient results quickly. However, the environmental impacts of the material are very concerning.
The most well known fact is the excessive CO2 emission of the cement industry, as it occupies 3rd place of global CO2 emissions11. But even if emissions dropped gradually with innovation efforts to create the green concrete12, we are not sure if the industry will ever be fully sustainable and carbon-neutral.

Why? Because the environmental harm does not stop with CO2 emission. We have to keep in mind:

other additives in the material’s production,excessive water usage (both during cement production and construction with concrete), centralized production, lack of perspirability of cement forces the combination with other unbreathable, synthetic materials.complexity/impossibility of recycling concrete, often reinforced, combined with lightweight materials, or in complexe composite materials,that concrete surfaces trap heat and prevent rainwater absorption,

That makes cement the ultimate enemy in sustainable architecture. It is time to opt for alternatives. To reduce our environmental impact, we put our votes to use lime: in contrast to cement, lime is biodegradable and fully-recyclable (even on bricks), and most of the time, locally produced.

A more detailed article on cement will be published in the upcoming weeks, stay tuned!

Cardboard+lime insulation

Key concepts

Cardboard pulp: Cardboard soaked in water for at least 12 hours, and then squeezed and mixed with an electric mixerCardboard+lime paste: The whole mix we used for our prototypes. Its composition changed over time as described below.Quicklime: Calcium Oxide. CaO. The outcome of heating limestone. Slaked lime: Hydrated lime. Ca(OH)2. It is the paste result of putting enough water so that the quicklime combines chemically with it.Natural hydraulic lime: Ca(OH)2+reactives. It is used to make mortar which sets through hydration.

Since this last year, we have been working on what we call cardboard+lime, based on papercrete in which we swapped cement with lime. Our goal of producing insulation allows us to use a non-structural, but less harmful material. In the first experiment, we mixed lime and cardboard14 in a small brick shape which looked very promising in terms of resistance. We were really curious about what we could get from there.

The first question that appeared was which shape should we give to these prototypes: Should we continue with bricks? Should we try with panels? In our previous research, the amount of time that producing panels takes was one of the biggest handicaps, so we decided to look for a way to remove this step from the process. We opted for making shuttering molds and applying a cardboard+lime paste in situ.

First prototypes

We have made many prototypes, have learnt different new things from each one and have tried to improve in each new attempt. The second cardboard+lime paste was made from recycled cardboard that we got from Lipor, water, sand and natural hydraulic lime (NHL) and was applied in a temporary wooden formwork of 1 m2 and 8 cm of thickness.

cardboard lime insulation timeline

Recipe and setting process

We started with a basic mix made of (proportion in volume):

Cardboard15 pulp70%Sand 20%NHL 5 1610%

That first trial gave us an overview about the outcome we wanted to have and what was missing. In the following prototypes, we added borax for added resistance to fungi and mould. We also increased the proportion of hydraulic lime, reducing the sand; this made the mix easier to mix and apply. We got a better consistency in the cardboard+lime paste and we could notice it during the curing: the prototype was more compact and homogeneous.

Over time, we saw a small shrinkage up to 2% of their sizes and the terrible appearance of mould on the second and third prototypes. The cardboard+lime paste shrinks because of the amount of cardboard pulp –it tends to shrink when it loses its water– in the final mix; and the mould appears because of the slow setting process.

How did we try to solve this?

Adding slaked lime in order to kill any kind of life that wanted to appear.Adding plaster to accelerate the curing process.Reducing the percentage of cardboard pulp.

Thus, our final cardboard+lime recipe got its shape (proportion in volume):

Cardboard pulp62%Sand15.5%NHL 515.5%Slaked lime2.3%Plaster2.3%Borax2.3%

Shuttering and structure

In the beginning, the shuttering was thought of as a temporary structure –such as those we can see for making concrete– compound of vertical wooden pillars and boards. After the first prototype, we realised this was not feasible if we wanted the cardboard+lime to be a solid and permanent insulation attached to the wall.

In order to achieve a safe insulation that could last for years in place, we designed an internal structure secured to the vertical one and the wall in such a way that only the boards were removable. At the end, we decided to also add interior beams to completely ensure the cardboard+lime insulation.

Making and applying cardboard+lime

As the recipe and the structure evolved over time, so did the production process.. With the addition of new structural elements, such as the inner string and beams, the procedure became more complex.

We had to follow a step by step process in which the use of one tool or another could save us a lot of time, as well as the outcome could change completely if it was not followed properly. Furthermore, the setting process could be slashed depending on the context: are we working during Summer? Are we working in a humid zone? Do we have enough ventilation? And with it, the properties of the insulation.

How to make the cardboard+lime insulation
Disclaimer: Calculation for 1 m2 insulation. First, measure the whole wall you want to insulate and divide it in the best way it can fit. Also, if you are making the insulation in a stone/concrete wall, mark and make all the holes you will need.

Cardboard+lime paste – with the proportion referred before

For making the cardboard+lime paste we need to first prepare the cardboard pulp and the slaked lime (you can buy ready-made lime putty, but we used to make it ourselves).

Slaked lime

This is a dangerous chemical reaction, so we advise to use goggles, mask and gloves.


In a large metal container –nothing plastic though, as the heat generated by the reaction will melt it–, add one part quicklime to three parts water.Always add quicklime to water, and never water to quicklime, as it will spit, and can be very dangerous.The reaction should start and it can achieve temperatures over 100ºC.Wait until cooled down. Usually we prepared the mix at least one day in advance.

Cardboard pulp

For 1 m2 of cardboard+lime insulation, 6 cm thicker, you will need 65 l of cardboard pulp.


Tear/shred the cardboard into 4-5 cm pieces and drop them into a bucket until almost full.Pour enough water into the bucket to soak the cardboard pieces.Let the paper soak for at least 12h (and no more than 48).Attach the mixer to the drill and move it around in the cardboard to shred it to a pulp.Squeeze and reserve.

After having these two ingredients ready, we can start the mix!

In a concrete mixer, put half of the cardboard pulp, the hydraulic lime, the sand, plaster, borax and the slaked lime.Start the machine and add the rest of the cardboard pulp little by little to get a better mix.If you see the mix becoming small balls, stop and tear them apart. Mix again until having an homogenous mix.

Applying the cardboard+lime paste

For the shuttering we use 6×6 cm wooden bars and 100×33 cm plywood boards.

cardboard lime shuttering structure
Make the frame where the shuttering will be placed. Mark where the structure is going to be placed. Place a bar horizontally on the floor (a), attach it to the wall with screws. Place two bars vertically (b) with 1 m separation between them. Measure from the axis of each bar. Attach them to the wall with screws.Put four screws (c) drawing a ‘z’, two of them on the vertical bars with ~20 cm distance and the other two on the wall at the same high. Tie a string (d) ]to the first screw – the one closer to the horizontal beam on the floor–.Stretch the string to the next screw –the one at the same high that the one before–. Don’t tie the string because we will need to tight it later.


Screw the wooden board to the pillars.Start pouring the cardboard+lime paste until it covers the string. Press the paste.Tight the string.Pour more cardboard+lime paste.Stretch the string to the third screw, in diagonal.Pour more paste. Press it. – The more you press, the better.Tight the string, stretch it to the last screw on the pillar. Put a beam with nails (e) small beam]. Press.Repeat from point 2.

Setting process

Remove the boards after 3 days. There is no risk of downfall, but the cardboard+lime paste is still wet so be careful not to beat it. The setting process can last for many weeks until the insulation is completely dry, but with the proper conditions it should be around 3 weeks. During these three weeks the insulated room must be well ventilated – cross ventilation is always the best- to avoid the condensation and with it, the slowed down of the curing process.

Conclusions and further steps

After almost one year of researching and observing the behaviour of the different prototypes, it seems fair to say that cardboard+lime, with the recipe shown above, is indeed proven to be a promising insulation material.

But we ended on a process that is a bit crazy. We realized that applying cardboard+lime as we did needs specific conditions and a meticulous procedure. So, yes, for experienced building people cardboard+lime in this shape may work as an eco-friendly low-tech material. Nevertheless, our aim is to give to our society a environmentally friendly insulation material accessible for all.

How to store food outside of the fridge

Thus, now that we know that the material works, we are working to improve its shape. In our last prototypes, we decided to re-think the brick shape and made two blocks of 36x23x7.5 cm and one of 40.5x.17.5×3 cm. The outcome looks auspicious: easier process of making, less time to dry and highly resistance after the curing process.

The next steps include coming back to the panels with a hydraulic press that may allow a faster curing process and more consistent and resistant material. We keep working in this direction to maximize the potential of this insulation.

Notes and references

1 Marques Costa, R. (2019) Crise na habitação empurra mais pessoas para casas sem condições mínimas. Publico (PT) – https://www.publico.pt/2019/05/25/sociedade/noticia/ha-viva-condicoes-precarias-sao-realidades-escondidas-1873884

2 Habitat for Humanity (year) 7 things you should know about poverty and housing. https://www.habitat.org/stories/7-things-you-should-know-about-poverty-and-housing

3 Eurostat (2019), Inability to keep home adequately warm – EU-SILC survey. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_mdes01

4 Eurostat (2012), Share of population living in a dwelling not comfortably cool during summer time. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_hcmp03

5 Eurostat (2018), Total population living in a dwelling with a leaking roof, damp walls, floors or foundation, or rot in window frames or floor – EU-SILC survey. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_mdho01

6 C.-M. Popescu, D. Jones (2017) Cellulose, pulp and paper. Jones, D. Brischke, C. (Eds.) Performance of Bio-based Building Materials. [pp.75] https://doi.org/10.1016/C2015-0-04364-7

7 China Impacts Price of Recyclable Cardboard. https://www.phswastekit.co.uk/blog/posts/10-07-2019/-china-impacts-price-of-recyclable-cardboard

8 Eurostat (2016), Generation of waste by waste category, hazardousness and NACE Rev.. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/env_wasgen

9 Eurostat (2016), Treatment of waste by waste category, hazardousness and waste management operations. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/env_wastrt

10 Nubie, S. (2019) How to make papercrete: the ultimate building material for off grid living. Homestead Survival Site. https://homesteadsurvivalsite.com/how-to-make-papercrete/

11 Andrew, R (2019), Global CO2 emissions from cement production, 1928-2018, Center for International Climate Research. https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-11-1675-2019

12 IEA (2019), Tracking Industry, IEA, Paris. https://www.iea.org/reports/tracking-industry/cement

13 Recycled cardboard provided by Lipor – local trash collector company.

14 Over time, we realised that cardboard sweats the ink printed on it, so then we tried to avoid printed parts as much as possible.

15 Natural Hydraulic Lime NHL 5 NP EN 459-1.

The post Out of the box – Vol. 3 first appeared on Critical Concrete.

Tyre Foundations

Tyre Foundations

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DISCLAIMER

[This article shows the development of the first step of a new prototype experimented in Critical Concrete. During the conception of the green roof, the structure was checked by a civil engineer who also advised us in the development of our wildest prototypes.]

Check out the video to see how we experimented with scrap tyres and compressed earth&gravel for a low-impact and concrete free building! 
:ok_hand:

Introduction 

In the progress of developing our green roof prototype we have been confronted with foundations in different ways. Seeking for alternatives it turned out that the old granite walls of the building, once reinforced by wooden beams, would be strong enough to carry the load of the new roof. You can read all about the refurbishment and reinforcing of the walls for the roof in our previous articles (walls-refurbishment 1.0, walls-refurbishment 1.1, how to build a stone wall).

The size of the new roof however, stretches out further than the fully loadable walls. For that reason, part of the roof needs a different kind of foundation.

Section of Tyre foundation
Section of the green roof highlighting the parts supported by tyre foundations

Our Research

Throughout our research for alternatives to concrete, we stumbled over the tyre foundation. For us, it was very interesting since it is a low-tech solution which is composed only of scrap tyres filled with compressed gravel. Both components are easily accessible almost everywhere in the world.

Indeed, when tyres worn out, they become a waste which is not easy to handle. Recently, more processes that aim at recycling have been developed from which rubber, steel and textile fibers are obtained. Another solution is to reuse the tyres directly in a different context, thus avoiding more energy consumption for the transformation of the product.

Pile if trashed tyres
Pile of trashed tyres
Re-using the tyre
Worn out tyre reused in a new contextScrap tyres have already been tested in various cases in the construction field, for example to make the roadbed of the streets and referred to as mechanical concrete, a method widely used in the USA. One of the most known cases is the Earthship Biotecture concept autonomous houses developed by architect Michael Reynolds, in which earth-rammed automobile tyres are used for building the main retaining wall of the house. This technique is presented as the most appropriate method for its strength, economy and low need of technical skills.

Truck covering tyres with rubble

Person standing on tyre wall
Pictures by mechanicalconcrete.com (pictures on the left) and by earthship_biotecture (licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) (picture on the right)

The flexibility of the tyre can also offer durable protection in a seismic area. These foundations can indeed reduce the effect of seismic vibrations on the building on top of them and it can be used in every stable soil, even clay soil (for more information click here). Yet we couldn’t find any applications that fits exactly our needs. Many cases used the tyres to build walls, or wall-like foundations where the structure was resting without anchoring. Other examples used conventional concrete to fix some kind of anchoring sockets. As far as we know, our case, a structure with several punctual load bearing columns, has not been well documented yet.

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

Our Approach

In our particular case, we designed two single stepped footings for two columns of the green roof.

Section and plan of tyre foundation
Section and plan of the two single stepped footings for two columns of the green roof

One part of the green roof structure lies on a massive, structurally stable granite wall built in the 19th century, and the other part will lay on the new foundation. Since it is a prototype and it is not well known how the foundations will react to the heavy load, we decided to make the new part (15m2) independent of the rest of the roof previously built (120m2). This assembly required us to insert an expansion joint which allows movement due to ground settlement or other variations, expansion or contraction of building materials. It will also assist the observation of potential changes and reduce the risk of damaging the whole roof in the worst case scenario. Indeed, this technique has been used in England for at least 15 years. Research and experiments of the Holy Trinity Church Tulse Hill showed that they tyre stacks will hold a minimum of 1000 kN/m2 of load with no detected movement on the expansion but a compressive variation of only 3mm (to watch the video click here). The IUT of Grenoble made tests of loading tyre foundations from the Flexagone office: They applied the weight of pressure of 72 tons on the foundation, without any damage or detectable movement (for more information click here).

Additionally we consulted several engineers to check our structural conceptions. As we explained in former articles, the heavy loads on the roof – composed of the drainage layer, earth and plants – impacts the renovation process by its load of 600 kg/m2– 5.88kN/m2, including the dynamic load. Based on this information and our needs, we developed the concept of single stepped footings for columns. We calculated that each pillar should carry about 2400kg approximately. The foundation includes a socket which joins it with the wooden column.

Side view of foundation
Section of the Tyre Foundation

This connection is especially important while setting up the tyre and aligning the structure. Once the roof is finished, its own weight will hold its place. Below the foundation is a metal plate. On one hand, it distributes the forces on the soil and on the other hand it connects the foundation to the holding socket of the column. On top of the metal plate lay the tyres. We chose two tyres to make the foundation strong enough for the load. One truck tyre (95cm ø) and a smaller car tyre (65cm ø). The holding socket for the column is layed on the upper tyre and connected to the foundation through threaded rods which are welded to the base plate. The socket itself also holds the column in the right position.

Our workexplained step-by-step

This guide is an overview of every step we took in building our prototype of the tyre foundation. Since it was our first attempt, not all of our processes are optimized and need further development. However, this should serve as an inspiration for anyone with a similar situation and is open for discussion and improvement.

Beforehand a list of tools we used
in the progress:

welding machine,crowbar,grinder,hammer,wheelbarrow,bench drill,shovel,cutter.

Throughout each phase, we remind you that it’s important to protect yourself using appropriate safety equipment.

For this, you will need:

helmets,protective goggles,appropriate protective gloves,security shoes,reusable dust masks.

Preparation of the ground

The first and most important step before starting any foundation is the analysis of the ground. The soil has to have a sufficient bearing capacity. If the soil is not suitable there are different possibilities like reinforcing the soil, digging deeper, or adapting the foundation type to a wider tyre for example. In our case, we needed to dig until +/- 70 cm under the floor level to find a proper soil. We decided to put a layer of 5 cm of compressed gravel, frequently used under footings to have a correct level.

Estimated time: 6 to 8 hours per pit,
depending on the toughness of the ground

Woman levelling ground
Leveling the ground of the pit

The base metal plate

The metal plate is the base of the foundation and serves as a solid surface for the tyres. We chose a thickness of 2 cm. To have the plate and also the column connected to the foundation we welded 4 threaded rods to the plate. The socket will be attached to these rods later on. Before putting the plate in the pit we put a breathable and waterproof membrane supposed to protect the plate from humidity in the ground. An EPDM membrane might have been a more suitable choice to increase the durability of the protection. We tried to wrap the plate as well as possible. Additionally, we painted the base plate and especially the weld joints with anti-corrosive paint. We still don’t know how this will react with the time, neither if it is going to be efficient enough to protect the welds. Our main objective is to take all the necessary precautions to avoid that water eventually permeates and settles at the bottom of the foundation. In our next tyre foundation build, we would consider drilling some holes in the metal plate to allow for the draining of water infiltration. The use of this metal plate was advised by our engineer to level the ground on which the foundation itself would set, but we didn’t find any other project using a similar precaution. It was also helpful for us to link the column to the foundation on a robust way.

Metal plate wrapped with membrane
Metal plate wrapped with membrane

Estimated time: 2 to 6 hours,
depending on accessible tools to cut the plate on the good dimensions

Metal plate on the ground of the pit
Metal plate on the ground of the pit

Preparation of the columns

The columns we used are made out of two 12×24 cm construction plywood beams. To join the two pieces we glued and screwed them together. The section is therefore 24×24 cm. To protect the wood from fire, water and pests we applied a layer of wood ash on the tyre, as well as protected the wooden column with a layer of borax, known as a protection against mold and repellent against insects. For a specific protection to prevent a specific termite attack, we paint the column with a mix of essential orange oil (5%) and linseed oil (95%). We will soon dedicate a detailed article to wood protection from fire, water and pests.

Estimated time: 2 hours.

Preparation of the socket

We used a steel socket to fix the column with the foundation. The socket is connected to the foundation with four threaded rods. It is fundamental to align properly the rods after putting the base plate, so that the columns would be aligned to each other. We used a wooden guide to secure the rods’ position while filling the tires. This guide is composed of two pieces that represent the two plates, with the holes for the threaded rods, and a long bar that helps to maintain them aligned and in place.

Metal plate on the ground of the pit
Metal plate on the ground of the pit

Estimated time: 4 to 6 hours,
depending on accessible tools to cut the steel and drill the holes.

Tyre foundation alignment
Checking the alignment

Filling of the tyres

In its rawest form, the tyres can only be filled with earth. Lots of case studies for earth filled tyre foundations are in relatively dry climates where the temperature doesn’t go below 0°C. It is preferable to use an other sub-grade as gravel or other material to encourage drainage and allow for water expansion, and then avoiding some major instability in the ground caused by frost. We decided to choose gravel made of local accessible granite, from the North of Portugal. We had the choice of three sizes of gravel. After some discussions with our engineer, we decided to order the smallest to have better cohesion. We also added some sand to create a mix with better bonding and leave no empty space between the gravel. We used the ratio of two parts gravel to one part of sand (2:1). The mix in the tyres has to be then as compressed as possible. At first, the tyre can be filled with a shovel and by hands. When it is not possible to get any more of the mix in, a crowbar and a piece of wood can be used to open the tyre (see how they did at the Holy Trinity Church Tulse Hill). Once held open, a second person can continue to fill up the space with the mix. A piece of wood can be used to shove the mix in as deep as possible and a hammer to compress it. This needs to be done until the tyre is inflated and no more mix can be added. The foundation is now ready for the socket.

One member of the CC Team inside a tyre.

Filling a tyre with gravel.

Filling a tyre with gravel and compressing

Estimated time: 6 hours for two people to fill the 2 tyres for one foundation
(a truck and a car tyre).

Installation of the socket

The steel socket which is holding the column is made out of three pieces of steel. The objective is to obtain a socket that correctly holds the column. We thought about different forms and finally settled with a “U”-form, that could maintain the feet of the columns and be correctly fixed to the lower part of the foundation.

Metal flanges on base plate
Base plate

The first part being the base plate (30x30cm), which has four holes to be fixed with the threaded rods of the foundation. The holes of the plate have to line up with the position of the threaded rods and should be 1mm bigger than the diameter of the rods to facilitate their insertion. Our rods were 12mm diameter. The second part being the two steel brackets (15x20cm), which are welded to the plate and hold the column with two horizontal threaded rods. The individual steps of this process are explained below.

Drill metal plate
(1) The holes in both of the brackets, which should be shifted, can be drilled and should be at least 2-3mm bigger than the rods.

Plate and flange
(2) Afterward, the first bracket can be welded on the base plate.

Drill flange to timber column

(3) The piece, that results from this step can be used to mark the position of the holes on the wood of the column. For this, half of the steel socket can just be laid on the column.

Column sitting on base
Image

(4) It might be necessary to cut a little edge of the column so there is some space for the weld. After marking the holes, they can be drilled also 2-3mm bigger than the rod. The bigger the holes are, the more room there is to adjust and compensate for potential inaccuracies.

Column on base

(5) The next step is to find the right position for the second bracket. For this, the socket can be laid on the floor, and the column can be put on it. The rods can be stuck through the holes of the first bracket, the column and the second bracket, which is not fixed yet. Also, the bolts can be put on and tightened.

Sketch of steel base plate
Column steel base plate sketch

(6) The second bracket should now touch the base plate and there should be no gap. If it doesn’t, any holes can be drilled bigger to make it fit properly. If it fits, it can be fixed by welding on 4-5 small points. Afterward, the column can be removed. The second bracket should be in the right position and can now be welded on completely.

Estimated time: 5 hoursto install the socket: drill, weld and adjust.

Installation of the columns

Once the socket is welded together in the “U”-form and the holes are drilled, the foundation is ready to receive the columns which have a section of 24×24 cm.Having an even level foundation is crucial and is something to pay extra attention to, during all the process. First, we used the spirit level to check the level of the lower plate, to ensure that the tyre will be placed on level ground. Indeed, it is important to keep in mind that the column will apply a heavy load that needs to be properly transferred to the foundation. For the next steps, the laying of the tyres and the fixation of the socket, make sure to always keep checking the level and the alignment of each foundation.

Metal base plate
Checking the level of the metal plate

Estimated time: 2 hours.

2 men working in workshop
Preparing the columns

The retaining wall

In our case, one of the foundations is positioned under the level of the earth, in an outside environment, that forced us to find a solution for the rainwater not entering inside the workshop space. A retaining wall has been constructed to withstand lateral pressure of soil, due to earth and rainwater. There are a lot of different retaining walls, used for different situations for example the gabion retaining wall or the cantilever retaining wall.

Building retaining wall
Building the retaining wall

In our case, we built a gravity retaining wall that depends on its self-weight only to resist lateral earth pressure. Commonly, this needs to be of large proportions because it requires a significant gravity load. We constructed the wall from granite stones that we had acquired from previous deconstruction of old walls. To protect the column from water infiltration, we bonded the stones with a lime mortar mix.

Furthermore, we plan to realize a drain which prevents rainwater from entering the basement. Parallel to the retaining wall, it will collect excess water and runs it through a pipe into a sump away.

Cost and Time Comparison

Since we are using the tyre foundation instead of a concrete foundation, the comparison of cost is a crucial point. For this reason we compare only the part of the foundation which is replaceable. The socket and the column are therefore not part of the comparison, since they are the same for both versions. We already pointed out the factor of sustainability, which is our driver in this matter. But what does this mean from an economical point of view? A tyre foundation in its simplest form is only made from dirt and scrap tyres and is therefore basically free. This method is suited for retaining walls and foundations that don’t require anchoring. Our Approach of a highly stressed single step footing which includes anchoring cost approximately 125€ compared to the concrete version of approximately 28€. As the calculation shows, the major cost factor is the metal plate which is also an open question for us. Its necessity is not completely clarified wherefore we are looking for alternatives which even out differences in price and make the single step foundation an economically competitive alternative.

Table showing cost and comparison

It is to be added that the concrete should be mixed homogeneously by a cement mixer rather than by hand, and that welding the steel reinforcement takes some time as well and electricity, and quite a few welding electrodes. In terms of time, the concrete takes at least 7 days to set sufficiently for a foundation in order to set-up the column, but is faster to make, comparatively.

Conclusion

In the process of finishing the green roof, the application of the tyre foundation has been challenging but successful so far. It is carrying the roof structure but needs further observation as to how it will react under the full load of the green roof including soil and vegetation. To be able to observe any kind of movement we installed a measuring unit that we will control regularly.

Measuring settling of tyre foundation
Movement measurement
How to store food outside of the fridge
Sustainable Satisfaction? 

Concrete is an extremely popular material for construction and can be found in most parts of the world. Today concrete is the primary material used for foundations because of its many positive attributes: it is strong in compression, it is flexible as it can be poured into adapted forms and sizes, it can be applied in situ, it has good fire resistant qualities. However, the production of Portland cement, an essential constituent of concrete, leads to the release of significant amounts of CO2 and other greenhouse gases. Because of limited natural resources, such as sand, and the output of greenhouse gases, concrete production is not sustainable and therefore requires alternatives in the construction field. A possibility is to use recycled materials which have low energy costs, high durability and low maintenance requirements and therefore a small impact on the environment.

The single step footing foundation represent a viable and affordable alternative method we are looking forward to developing and using in further projects.

You want to see more? Check out the video to see how we experimented with scrap tyres and compressed earth&gravel for a low-impact and concrete free building! 
:ok_hand:

Sources

[Ar. Bindu agarwal, Ar. Aanchal Sharma] “Reuse of Waste Materials: A case study of Earthships”, in: International Journal of Science, Engineering and Technology Research (IJSETR) Volume 6, Issue 10, October 2017, [Online] available at: http://ijsetr.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/IJSETR-VOL-6-ISSUE-10-1364-1369.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Architecture 2030] “Buildings generate nearly 40% of annual global GHG emissions”, [Online] available at architecture2030.org/buildings_problem_why/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Andrew, Robbie M.] “Global CO2 emissions from cement production, 1928–2018”, CICERO Center for International Climate Research, [Online] available at: https://www.earth-syst-sci-data-discuss.net/essd-2019-152/essd-2019-152.pdf (Last accessed December 2019).

[Decorex Pro] “Technology for the construction of the foundation of tires”, [Online] available at: /en.decorexpro.com/fundament/iz-pokryshek/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Department for Business, Innovation and Skills London] “Estimating the Amount of CO2 Emissions that the construction industry can influence”, [Online] available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/31737/10-1316-estimating-co2-emissions-supporting-low-carbon-igt-report.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Deva Racusin, Jacob; McArleton, Ace] “The Natural Building Companion: A Comprehensive Guide to Integrative Design and Construction”, 2012

[Flexagon Office] “Fondations et plots”, in: La Maison Ecologique 67 – fevrier et mars 2012, [Online] available at: http://yourtes.net/fichiers/Fondations%20et%20plots%20-%20La%20Maison%20Ecologique%2067%20-%20fevrier%20et
%20mars%202012.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Holy Trinity Tulse Hill on YouTube] “Packing Car Tyre Foundations (Car Tyre Foundations #4)”, [Online] available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YV2TG5aypw (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Holy Trinity Tulse Hill on YouTube] “Car Tyre Foundations Plate Test”, [Online] available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8Vlz6qNCfU (Last accessed in December 2019)

[König, H., Weissenfeld, P.] “Entretien écologique du bois”, ed. La plage, 2008.

[Lowimpact] “Why cement should never be used with natural buildings”, [Online] available at: https://www.lowimpact.org/why-cement-should-never-be-used-on-straw-bale-houses/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Mechanical Concrete] “Award Winning, Economical, Green, Industrial Strength, Construction Technology”, [Online] available at: http://www.mechanicalconcrete.com/ (Last accessed in December 2019]

[Miteco] “Descarbonatac fabrical”, [Online] available at: https://www.miteco.gob.es/es/calidad-y-evaluacion-ambiental/temas/sistema-espanol-de-inventario-sei-/040614-descarbonatac-fabric-cal_tcm30-429852.pdf [Last accessed in December 2019)

[Miteco] “Combust fabricamento”, [Online] available at: https://www.miteco.gob.es/es/calidad-y-evaluacion-ambiental/temas/sistema-espanol-de-inventario-sei-/030311-combust-fabric-cemento_tcm30-430164.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Naik, Tarun R.] “Sustainability of Concrete Construction”, [Online] available at: https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/%28ASCE%291084-0680%282008%2913%3A2%2898%29 (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Russian Patents] “Module-type anti-seismic protective unit for buildings and structures”, [Online] available at: https://russianpatents.com/patent/225/2250308.html (Last accessed in December 2019]

[World Green Building Council] “New report: the building and construction sector can reach net zero carbon emissions by 2050”, [Online] available at: ww.worldgbc.org/news-media/WorldGBC-embodied-carbon-report-published (Last accessed in December 2019).

The post Tyre Foundations first appeared on Critical Concrete.
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A Guide to Different Concrete Types

A Guide to Different Concrete Types

Concrete is one of the most used building materials on the planet. Used for patios, sidewalks, driveways, pools, and just about anything else you can think of, concrete offers an effective and economical solution to any construction need. Unfortunately, due to its many uses, concrete can also be tough to work with, even for professionals. In this article, we’ll look at some of the concrete types that are most commonly used, as well as the differences between each style that will affect your projects.

concrete types

Concrete: The simplest form of concrete, this material consists of a coarse aggregate of calcium carbonate. This coarse aggregate is mixed with water to form a thick paste, which is then formed into various shapes depending on the application. This style of concrete has a number of advantages over others, but it’s important to understand how it works so you can understand which style to use.

Lime: Often used as a decorative material, lime concrete adds a unique character to any landscape or building. Available in a variety of colors, this style of concrete is the least expensive among the concrete types. Also called cladding concrete, this style is made by adding fine aggregate materials to an existing slab of concrete and sealing the surface using a sealer. It is a fairly straightforward process that makes it ideal for do-it-yourselfers.

Stamped Concrete: This style of concrete is produced by pouring a pattern of concrete into the molds. As the concrete is poured, it’s mixed with reinforcing steel reinforcement to make it stronger. This is another great option if you want to build a house that needs a lot of support without being super expensive. This is also the concrete of choice for many automobile manufacturers.

Epoxy Concrete: Similar to the previously mentioned style of concrete, epoxy concrete is created by mixing liquid concrete with a coating. This coating can be any number of different colors, though dark colors tend to be the most popular. This style of concrete is very durable and long-lasting, but it does have the potential for being costly if it is built on a slope. Usually blended with interlocking resins, concrete in this style has a very smooth surface. Epoxy can be used to create a variety of different styles, including stamped concrete.

Polystyrene Concrete: Unlike other forms of concrete, polystyrene concrete is formed by laying it over a mold, then filling the mold with Styrofoam. The concrete is poured into place over the mold and is cured by being exposed to a heating element. While polystyrene concrete may sound like an unconventional choice for building materials, it has been around for decades and continues to be a popular option. It’s inexpensive and extremely durable. If your basement is a wet basement, consider polystyrene concrete for basement flooring.

Mortarized Concrete: As its name implies, concrete has been wired together so that it can be pulled out of the ground by hand. This is often used as a foundation for concrete slabs. As the concrete is pulled out, it can be pre-poured to avoid any mess or cleanup. The downside to using this type of concrete is that it is not very flexible and therefore requires cement to be poured into the mold. This type of concrete is commonly seen in commercial settings.

When mixing concrete, you need to be aware of all the concrete types that are out there. This is because certain mixes will work well with some concrete types, but not others. Make sure to seek professional advice before attempting to mix concrete on your own. If you use the right mix, you will have a beautiful, durable, and affordable floor.